Two years ago I had the time of my life in the Baltics. I got to see Tõnis and Martin for the first time in ages, made a bunch of new friends, and had a grand adventure exploring small but old cities. With some time between jobs I thought where is it that I could go and feel like the grueling journey was worth it? I immediately thought of the wonderful time I had in Estonia laughing my ass off with Tõnis. I haven’t spoken to him much since then so I sent an email and was unsurprised but happy to find his response to be so gregarious. So I booked some flights. My journey this time brought me through Moscow, I was rewarded with an empty row on my overnight flight (behind a screeching toddler) and then again had an empty middle seat on my flight from Moscow to Tallinn. I even got a chance to try French champagne and Russian beer thanks to my priority pass. Still I found myself napping in the reception slash common room of my hostel, still in my clothes from the day before, until I realized lunch with my friends would be soon. I decided to get up and take a walk to shake off my sleepiness.
After finding Tõnis, and walking with him and his bicycle to a cafe Martin picked, I began to remember why I loved Estonia so much the first time. As we sat at the cafe table for lunch, and then later as I watched the Estonian Brain Trust debate on what to show me and do with my in my 3.5 days here, I couldn’t help but have the biggest grin plastered on my face as I watched their conversation in Estonian volley back and forth, their tone so serious you’d think they were making monumental decisions rather than deciding how to entertain their American visitor. It ended with a (more or less) plan for the next couple days. Today’s plan was to eat lunch, break for work/check-in to my hostel, then meet again at 5 to do a mini road trip and see a concert of Estonian singers.
After my delicious halibut lunch Tõnis hopped on his bike and headed back to his office while Martin offered to walk me to an atm and then back to my hostel. On the way there was an exhibit for the anniversary folk song and folk dance celebration in Estonia. It’s a big deal and I had missed it by just a couple days. There were tens of thousands of performers and nearly ten times that in the audience. To celebrate it the history of the folk celebration was on display in one of the squares near old town. Martin walked me through it and explained the history of the event and it’s meaning to the Estonian people. Afterwards we said our farewells as he hopped a bus home and I walked across the street to my hostel.
It felt like it took a million years to check in, get a low bunk, and finally get my clothes together for tonight. I got out of the shower and remembered Tonis’ very specific instructions: that we would be taking a road trip so he could show me some of the sights I didn’t see on my first trip and I was not allowed to sleep in the car. He told me to take a nap and post shower a nap sounded amazing. I set my alarm and fell into a deep slumber that I came out of just ten minutes before my alarm. I continued to lay with my eyes closed and then felt my phone vibrate, we would be leaving a little late. I used the time to relax and organize my things then got dressed and out the door just in time to get a message that Tõnis was waiting for me outside. He asked if I took a nap and I said yes to which he replied that it seemed like I was much better then earlier over lunch.
I got in the familiar Volvo and we were off on our grand adventure. We set off down the highway and Tõnis was pointing out Soviet buildings and the story behind different structures, forest areas, towns, cliffs, you name it. We also joked around a lot as usual. When Tõnis pulled off to stop at a scenic outlook I wasn’t sure what to expect. I followed him as he stepped over a guard rail with ease and continued to follow as he got closer and closer to the cliff’s edge. He stepped away and invited me to test my vertigo and so I stepped as close as I dare too. It reminded me so much of Australia’s cliffs along the great ocean road except green and more wintery feeling. I peered over the edge and into the nothingness of the ocean separating Estonia from Finland. Tõnis pointed out the old submarine base turned wind farm and shared stories of how people would fall off all the time and a friend of his who fell and broke her legs. It was then that I actually noticed the guard rail meant to stop me from being near the edge and Tõnis nearly tripping over it to get back to the car. We continued our journey and stopped at another scenic view, but this time it was a waterfall and I was well away from harm. We continued along the paved road until Tõnis turned off onto a dirt path just wide enough for a single car to fit. There were humongous trees on either side of the path and it felt like something out of a movie. When we reached the end of the path there were dozens of cars parked and a short walk through some trees after parking the Volvo revealed a natural looking amphitheater. The benches were beautiful wood and the stairs/flooring was all grass. Behind the stage was a playground with some kids playing on it. As we waited in the queue to scan the tickets Tõnis pointed out all the food options and I laughed when he said he was hungrier then he thought. Inside we got grilled chicken, salad, and beer. French fries for me and delicious pickles to share. Beer and pickled vegetables being my favorite thing ever I sat at the picnic table happy as a pig in mud. Soon enough the group came on stage and we went to find some seats.
We saw an Estonian acapella group called Estonian Voices. Tõnis was kind enough to translate the jokes and the music subject matter but in general I was happy to just listen. The group was great and after finishing my beer found myself hopping along with the tunes. During intermission we split forces. Tõnis went on the huge coffee line and then sent me to get the pancakes.
There were quite a few children helping out behind the counters so when I walked up to order pancakes I was met with a worried look from the boy. I was the only solo English speaker in the crowd but instead of backing down he visibly straightened up and asked the import question (savory or sweet) and even when one of the women said she would speak English for him he refused and said he could handle it. Tõnis arrived to the pancake booth holding three cups. Two coffees and a small plastic tumblr with a familiar brown liquid - Vana Tallinn. I was so excited to see my favorite rum based liquor and after a few sips of the coffee to make room I poured it right in.
We took our cupcakes to the opposite side of the stage where there were standing counters to eat. We finished the pancakes then made a quick detour to the bon fire then dumped our cups (tonis’ in the fire, mine in the trash) then took up seats on our original side of the stage. I don’t know if it was the Vana Tallinn or just that the group was better in the second half of their show but I found myself bopping along and tapping my toe to the sounds they were making.
When the show was over I looked up at the twilight, bright grey sky, and wondered what time it was. Amazingly it was 10:30p and still light out. I realized that was how Tonis was able to take a different route home as he discussed and still show me around. On the way home we stopped at a Russian fighter pilot graveyard where they used pieces of the wing as colloidal grave stones for quite a few of them, drove by the NATO airfield, but started with driving through puddles, ruts, and bumps to get to a flooded prison. I thought to myself as Tonis was driving that it was a good thing neither of us get car sick as we were thrown around the vehicle. Eventually he found an entry path but it requires climbing a small but steep pile of debris. As Tonis climbed over it with ease in his dress shoes and then lead us down the wooded path, over barbed wire, and then down a rutted path to the water that he must be a mountain goat. On the trek back to the car I dreaded trying to get down the tiny but steep mole hill standing between me and the car. The mountain goat traversed with ease but slight difficulty and when I got to the crest I thought there’s no hope for me. Thankfully Tonis came back and I asked for help. He gave me his arm but I didn’t really need it as I made my way down and when I was safely back on uneven ground he chuckled and said there you go no problem, you’re just a baby mountain goat with slightly unsure footing.
By the time we got back to the city it was dark enough for the street lights to turn on and after 11pm. Tonis said that the sun would rise again at 4am and I found myself grateful that the hostel has darkened curtains. He drove me to the hostel, got out to hug me goodbye, and said we’d text tomorrow to figure out the plan. I told him not to worry about it too much if he couldn’t see me in the morning then headed upstairs to drop my jacket before going up to the hostel bar. Coming back at 11:30pm found me at a disadvantage. There were maybe 9 people in the common room, two groups of 8 and then an older man sitting alone of the couch. I took another couch and with my beer sat back and tried to join in a conversation between two Australian women and two Frenchmen. I was unsuccessful but then another guy sat down. He ended up moving next to me and we talked about internal audit (which he is an auditor for the local government) and technology and what there is to do in Tallinn. He must have been pretty drunk because he couldn’t comprehend that I didn’t need his help finding things to do, that I already have been here before and have my own guide. After about 20minutes he excused himself to buy another beer and when I pushed his can aside to get to my water and found it was full. I hung around long enough to realize the night was over, finished my beer and then headed to the common area outside my room to write. It may have been an extremely long day but I am so happy to be hanging out with Tonis again. All we do is laugh and joke around. I smiled so much today that my cheeks hurt a bit but it was absolutely worth the long ride to get here.
Location:Tatari,Tallinn,Estonia
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